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Tuesday, 8 January 2013

Rome, Italy

Welcome back to my blog! One of the highlights of my European Ryndam contract was my time in Rome, Italy. The port for Rome is Civitavecchia which is a good two hours drive away from the Eternal City. However, I was lucky enough to visit Rome twice, both times for free on shore excursions! Today I will be covering all the places I visited in Rome except for Saint Peter's Basilica which is actually located in a different country (the Vatican) and will receive its own blog soon.

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Above: The most famous myth about the founding of Rome, is the story of Romulus and Remus, the twins who were suckled by a she-wolf. They decided to build a city, but after an argument, Romulus killed his brother. This statue of them is found on Capitoline Hill.

Rome is the capital of Italy and with 2.8 million residents, it is also the country's largest. The city is located in the central-western portion of Italy, on the Tiber River and its history spans more than two and a half thousand years, since its founding in 753 BC, with the union of rural villages. It was the capital city of the Roman Empire, which was the dominant power in Western Europe for over seven hundred years from the 1st century BC until the 7th century AD and the city is regarded as one of the birthplaces of western civilization.

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Above: The famous Coliseum. More about this including a look inside later!

The tours which I went on were a combination of driving around the city, guided walks of major sites (such as Saint Peter's Basilica and the Collesium) as well as some free time to explore other parts of Rome. There is so much to see and do and many of the places we visited, we only spent a short amount of time there. On the two times I visited, the city was very crowded with lots of tourists and this combined with the proximity between famous sites (and the heat) made Rome a far more intense experience then other major cities I have visited like Berlin and Paris.

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Above: The Roman Forum (see below).

One of the most famous of the many, many ruins in Rome is the Roman Forum, a rectangular plaza surrounded by the ruins of several important ancient government. It was for centuries the centre of Roman public life and has been called the most celebrated meeting place in the world, and in all history: the site of processions and elections, venue for public speeches, criminal trials, and gladiatorial matches. Located in the small valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills, the Forum today is a sprawling ruin of architectural fragments attracting numerous sightseers. Unfortunately we only had time to gaze out over the vast plaza but when I return to Rome, this would be one of the places I would like to explore.

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Above: The Arch of Constantine with the Coliseum to the right.

Let's jump straight in with the most iconic sight in Rome - the Coliseum! Also spelt 'Colosseum', it is an elliptical amphitheatre, the largest ever built in the Roman Empire, built of concrete and stone. It is considered one of the greatest works of Roman architecture and Roman engineering. Occupying a site just east of the Roman Forum (see above), its construction started in 72 AD under the emperor Vespasian and was completed in 80 AD under Titus, with further modifications being made during Domitian's reign (81–96).

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Above: The inner wall and outer wall meet at a cross-section of the Coliseum.

Capable of seating 50,000 spectators, the Coliseum was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Classical mythology. The building ceased to be used for entertainment in the early medieval era. It was later reused for such purposes as housing, workshops, quarters for a religious order, a fortress, a quarry, and a Christian shrine.

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Above: A panoramic shot of the inside of the Coliseum.

Visiting the Coliseum was an interesting experience. I listened to Hans Zimmer's 'Gladiator' soundtrack whilst walking around inside which was very powerful but I was also a little disappointed that the Coliseum was not quite as huge or majestic as its portrayal in Ridley Scott's movie. In fact, during its heyday, it was and today the structure is partially ruined because of damage caused by devastating earthquakes and stone-robbers.

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Above: Passages such as these run around the Coliseum, dividing the tiered seating which was very important in separating the different classes of Roman citizens.

I was also initially perplexed by the arena area itself (where is the flat sand covered oval?!) until it was explained to me that the wooden floor covered by sand had rotted away, leaving the elaborate underground structure known as the hypogeum exposed. Literally meaning 'underground', the hypogeum consisted of a two-level subterranean network of tunnels and cages beneath the arena where gladiators and animals were held before contests began. Eighty vertical shafts provided instant access to the arena for caged animals and scenery pieces concealed underneath; larger hinged platforms, called hegmata, provided access for elephants and the like.

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Above: Arches and alcoves surrounding the arena.

Despite its damaged state, the Coliseum is an iconic symbol of Imperial Rome. It is one of Rome's most popular tourist attractions and still has close connections with the Roman Catholic Church, as each Good Friday the Pope leads a torchlit "Way of the Cross" procession that starts in the area around the Coliseum.

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Above: Locals dressed as soldiers making lots of money charging people for photos!

If the Coliseum is the most famous sight in Rome, the Trevi Fountain can't be far behind. Standing 26.3 metres high and 49.15 metres wide, it is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous fountains in the world.

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Above: Yours truly at the Trevi Fountain. Thanks for Madeline, my escort buddy for the pic!

Work began in 1732, and the fountain was completed in 1762. A traditional legend holds that if visitors throw a coin into the fountain, they are ensured a return to Rome. An estimated 3,000 euros are thrown into the fountain each day and the money has been used to subsidize a supermarket for Rome's needy; however, there are regular attempts to steal coins from the fountain.

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Above: A better shot of the Trevi Fountain.

Close by to the Fountain, are the Spanish Steps, another fairly well known attraction in central Rome. It is the widest staircase in Europe and climbs a steep slope between the Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti, dominated by the Trinità dei Monti church at the top. It was built in 1723 and the 1953 film Roman Holiday, starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, made the Spanish Steps famous to an American audience.

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Above: Standing on the Spanish Steps.

On one of our walking tours of the city, we also visited the Pantheon - another well known landmark. The Pantheon was commissioned by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to all the gods of Ancient Rome, and rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in about 126 AD. A rectangular vestibule links the porch to the rotunda, which is under a coffered, concrete dome, with a central opening to the sky. Almost 2000 years after it was built, the Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest un-reinforced concrete dome and the building is one of the best-preserved of all Roman structures. It has been in continuous use throughout its history, and since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been used as a Roman Catholic church dedicated to "St. Mary and the Martyrs".

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Above: The Pantheon, rebuilt in 126 AD.

I will bring you full circle now, back to Capitoline Hill (where the Romulus and Remus statue is found), one of the seven hills of Rome. It was the citadel (equivalent of the ancient Greek acropolis) of the earliest Romans. The Capitoline contains few ancient ground-level ruins, as they are almost entirely covered up by Medieval and Renaissance palaces (now housing the Capitoline Museums) that surround a piazza, a significant urban plan designed by Michelangelo.

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Above: Horse and rider guard the entrance to the Capitoline Hill.

At the foot of the hill is the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II built in honour of Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy. Designed by Giuseppe Sacconi in 1885, it was inaugurated in 1911 and completed in 1925.The monument is built of white marble and features stairways, Corinthian columns, fountains, an equestrian sculpture of Victor Emmanuel and two statues of the goddess Victoria riding on quadrigas. The structure is 135 m wide and 70 m high.

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Above: Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II

I will never forget my time in Rome and I hope to go back there to spend more time in the Eternal City one day. Thanks for reading and I'll be back soon with a look at the Vatican and Saint Peter's Basilica!









Tuesday, 1 January 2013

Barcelona, Spain

Welcome back to my blog and Happy New Year to everyone! Today, I'd like to show you a little of Barcelona. I am sure that many of you will be familiar with this city so I won't dwell on the facts too long!

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Above: Barcelona as viewed from the ship!

Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia and the second largest city in Spain, after Madrid, with a population of over 1.5 million. Founded as a Roman city, Barcelona became the capital of the County of Barcelona. After merging with the Kingdom of Aragon, Barcelona became one of the most important cities of the Crown of Aragon. Besieged several times during its history, Barcelona has a rich cultural heritage and is today an important cultural centre and a major tourist destination.

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Above: The famous Palau Nacional which was built in 1929 houses the National Art Museum of Catalonia.

Towards the end of my Ryndam contract, Barcelona became our home port (prior to that we were sailing out of Dover). Consequently there were not any tours available from the ship so I had to pay money (shocking!) to take a sightseeing bus around the city. The trip was long but worth it as we visited practically every famous sight in Barcelona! On another visit, I also walked around the famous Gothic Quarter, the centre of the old city of Barcelona.

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Above: The Gothic Quarter of Barcelona.

Located in the Gothic Quarter is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, also known as Barcelona Cathedral, constructed throughout the 13th to 15th centuries. A neo-Gothic façade was constructed over the nondescript exterior in the 19th century and the roof is notable for its gargoyles, featuring a wide range of animals, both domestic and mythical.

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Above: Barcelona Cathedral.

The Barri Gòtic (Catalan for "Gothic Quarter") has many buildings white date from medieval times, some from as far back as the Roman settlement of Barcelona. There are lots of photogenic buildings and corners:

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Above: A street corner in the Gothic Quarter.

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Above: There were lots of tiny shops dotted around the streets!

Particularly renowned buildings in Barcelona include the architectural works of Antoni Gaudí, many of which have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Catalan modernista architecture (related to the movement known as Art Nouveau in the rest of Europe), developed between 1885 and 1950 and left an important legacy in Barcelona. On my bus tour we drove past a few of these remarkable buildings:

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Above: Casa Batlló, one of several remarkable buildings built in the early 20th century.

Gaudí's best-known work is the immense but still unfinished church of the Sagrada Família, which has been under construction since 1882, and is still financed by private donations. Although incomplete, the church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in November 2010 was consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI. Though construction of Sagrada Família had commenced in 1882, Gaudí became involved in 1883, taking over the project and transforming it with his architectural and engineering style—combining Gothic and curvilinear Art Nouveau forms.

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Above: Sagrada Família, viewed through a street with construction cranes prominent.

Gaudí devoted his last years to the project, and at the time of his death in 1926, less than a quarter of the project was complete. Sagrada Família's construction progressed slowly, as it relied on private donations and was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War—only to resume intermittent progress in the 1950s. Construction passed the midpoint in 2010 with some of the project's greatest challenges remaining and an anticipated completion date of 2026—the centennial of Gaudí's death.

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Above: Constructed between 1894 and 1930, the Nativity façade was the first façade to be completed. Dedicated to the birth of Jesus, it is decorated with scenes reminiscent of elements of life.

One of Barcelona's most famous squares is Plaça d'Espanya, built on the occasion of the 1929 International Exhibition, held at the foot of Montjuïc, in the Sants-Montjuïc district. Also nearby is FC Barcelona's Camp Nou, the largest football stadium in Europe with a capacity of 100,000.

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Above: Arenas de Barcelona, a bullring built in 1900 in the Moorish Revival style which has now been converted into a shopping centre.

There is so much to see and do in Barcelona that you would need at least a week to take a substantial amount in. The Ryndam docked near to the Gothic Quarter and just a few hundred metres from us was a Picasso sculpture and the famous Columbus monument.

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Above: Picasso scultpure.

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Above: The Columbus Monument, a 60 meter tall monument to Christopher Columbus constructed for the Exposición Universal de Barcelona (1888) to honour Columbus' first voyage to the Americas.

Thanks for reading and stay tuned for two of the best European destinations to wrap up my Ryndam blogs: Rome and Pompeii!


Saturday, 29 December 2012

Lisbon, Portugal

Hello again! Today, I would like to show you a little bit of Lisbon, the capital city of Portugal! Lisbon is the westernmost large city located in Europe (with a population of half a million in central Lisbon), as well as its westernmost capital city and the only one along the Atlantic coast.

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Above: A panorama of downtown Lisbon outskirts as seen from the deck of the Ryndam!

Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world, and the oldest city in Western Europe, predating other modern European capitals such as London, Paris and Rome by hundreds of years. Julius Caesar made it a municipium and it was later ruled by a series of Germanic tribes from the fifth century, before being captured by the Moors in the eighth century. In 1147, the Crusaders under Afonso Henriques reconquered the city and since then it has been a major political, economic, and cultural centre of Portugal.

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Above: I walked to the top of Eduardo VII Park (named after Britain's Edward VII) on my travels through Lisbon. You can see the River Tagus where the Ryndam docked, in the background.

You may be surprised to hear that I did not take a tour during any of our visits to Lisbon! Instead, I walked around the city, with friends from the crew and also on my own. The city is very vibrant, with trams crisscrossing streets, and lots of pedestrians!

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Above: Tram lines in a typical downtown Lisbon street.

Locally, Lisbon inhabitants refer the spaces of Lisbon in terms of historic bairros (neighbourhoods). These communities have no clearly defined boundaries but represent special quarters with a common historical culture, identifiable architectural landmarks, livings standards and/or local personality, such as Bairro Alto, Alfama and Chiado. Different parts of the city did exhibit very different feels, from the main touristy areas to quieter backstreets like this:

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Above: A quiet Lisbon backstreet.

I took in many of the famous tourist sites in Lisbon, including the Square of Commerce ('Praça do Comércio') which is located on the waterfront of the Tagus River. The bronze statue in the middle of the square is of King José I, and was inaugurated in 1775. Opening towards the Augusta Street, which links the square with the other traditional Lisbon square, the Rossio, there is a triumphal arch, created in 1875. This arch, usually called the Arco da Rua Augusta, was designed by Veríssimo da Costa.

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Above: King José I with the arch behind in the Square of Commerce.

Another tourist hotspot nearby is the Santa Justa Lift which connects the lower streets of the Baixa with the higher Carmo Square. Completed in 1902, the Lift has since become a tourist attraction for Lisbon as, among the urban lifts in the city, Santa Justa is the only remaining vertical one. Lisbon is very hilly, and this lift was a way for pedestrians to access a higher part of the city without breaking a sweat.

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Above: The Santa Justa Lift.

A little further inland from the river is the famous Rossio Square which features one of the most prestigious theatres in Portugal, the National Theatre D. Maria II as well as a number of statues.

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Above: Rossio Square. You can see the Santa Justa Lift on the right, behind the statue.

Another key building on Rossio Square is the Rossio Railway Station, commissioned by the Portuguese Royal Railway Company and designed between 1886 and 1887 by Portuguese architect José Luís Monteiro. A rail tunnel was excavated under the city in 1890 to connect Lisbon to the region of Sintra, a tunnel which is today considered one of the most important engineering works of 19th century Portugal.

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Above: Rossio Railway Station.

The Neo-Manueline façade of the station is a Romantic recreation of the exuberant Manueline style, typical of early 16th century Portugal. Its most interesting features are the two intertwined horseshoe portals at the entrance, the clock in a small turret and the abundant sculptural decoration.

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Above: More interesting architecture and colours in Lisbon.

Whilst exploring the city - sometimes it is fun to just wander without a plan - I came across the National Pantheon - the Church of Santa Engrácia. The interior of the church was beautiful so I grabbed a shot before I was charged for entering!

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Above: Inside the Church of Santa Engrácia.

I'll leave you with a final shot from the walk back to the Ryndam from downtown Lisbon. This is a great city - despite its reputation as a hotspot for pickpockets - and I had fun wandering up and down its many and varied streets.

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Thursday, 27 December 2012

Monaco

Welcome back to my blog. I'm going to try and do a '12 Days of Christmas' thing to speed me through the rest of Europe and get on to Australia and Asia! Today it's Monaco!

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Above: Monaco (specifically the ward of Monte Carlo) with the famous casino on the top right.

Officially the Principality of Monaco, this city state is located on the French Riviera in Western Europe. Bordered by France on three sides, with one side bordering the Mediterranean Sea, its centre is about 10 miles from Italy, and is only 8 miles north east of Nice, France. It has an area of 0.79 square miles, and a population of 36,371, making Monaco the second smallest, and the most densely populated country in the world. The country is subdivided into ten Wards, the most famous of which is Monte Carlo.

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Above: The density of the high rises is fairly astonishing!

Monaco is a principality governed under a form of constitutional monarchy, with Prince Albert II as head of state. Even though Prince Albert II is a constitutional monarch, he still has immense political power; the House of Grimaldi have ruled Monaco, with brief interruptions, since 1297. Despite Monaco's independence and separate foreign policy, its defence is the responsibility of France. Whilst Monaco is not a member of the European Union, it is very closely linked via a customs union with France, and as such, its currency is the same as that of France, the euro.

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Above: The Palace of Monaco.

Economic development was spurred in the late 19th century with a railroad line to France, and the opening of the first casino, Monte Carlo. Since then, the principality's mild climate, splendid scenery, and gambling facilities have made Monaco world-famous as a tourist and recreation centre for the rich and famous. However, in more recent years Monaco has become a major banking centre holding over €100 billion worth of funds and is well known for being a tax haven. Some of its famous residents include Roger Moore, Novak Djokovic, Shirley Bassey, Lewis Hamilton and Ringo Starr.

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Above: A panoramic shot of Monaco, with the Palace to the left, Monte Carlo in the centre and our ship on the far right.

Whilst in Moncao, I took a tour (again!) as an escort on an overview of the country with stops at the Palace, the Cathedral and of course, the Grand Casino. In Saint Nicholas Cathedral, we were shown the graves of Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly and told their story: on 19 April 1956, Prince Rainier married American actress Grace Kelly; the event was widely televised and covered in the popular press, focusing the world's attention on the tiny principality.

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Above: Saint Nicholas Cathedral, the location of Grace Kelly's marriage.

Kelly died in 1982 after suffering a stroke and consequently crashing the car she was driving along the steep winding roads of Monaco. Prince Rainier never re-married and was buried next to his wife when he died on 6 April 2005 after a reign of 56 years. Their son Prince Albert II, is now the ruling monarch of Monaco.

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Above: Grace Kelly's grave inside Saint Nicholas Cathedral.

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Above: This alcove runs around the back of the altar and is where all of the graves are located.

Driving in Monaco is fairly crazy as the traffic is always very busy but we eventually made it over to Monte Carlo to explore the Grand Casino! 'Le Grand Casino de Monte Carlo' opened in 1858, and the casino benefited from the tourist traffic the newly built French railway system created. Due to the combination of the casino and the railroads, Monaco finally recovered from the previous half century of economic slump, and the principality's success attracted other businesses.

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Above: The Grand Casino, mirrored in a fountain.

By 1869, the casino was making such a vast sum of money that the principality could afford not to collect tax from the Monegasques; a master stroke that was to attract affluent residents from all over Europe. Today, Société des bains de mer de Monaco, which owns Le Grand Casino still operates in the original building, and has since been joined by several other casinos. Curiously, Monaco's own citizens are not allowed to gamble in the casino.

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Above: The Grand Casino

We were allowed inside the Casino but we could not take pictures and the bouncers did not want anyone looking too 'touristy' - so no shorts, excursion stickers, hats etc! It was incredibly opulent with many rooms, including a bar with a piano trio set up - I want that gig! Just on the right of the photo above is The Hôtel de Paris, established in 1864 by Charles III of Monaco and one of the most famous hotels in the country.

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Above: Some of the cars, parked outside the The Hôtel de Paris. The chauffer would start the engine, drive the car two feet forward and then get out and hand the keys to the guest!

One of my favourite part of visiting a new place is to find out what films have been filmed there! Hitchcock's 'To Catch a Thief' (1954) and 'GoldenEye' (1995) feature scenes in Monaco and 'Iron Man 2' (2010) featured a set piece at the Grand Prix. Since 1955, the Monaco Grand Prix has been held annually in the streets of Monaco. The circuit has many elevation changes and tight corners, along with a tunnel and it takes six weeks to set up, and three to pack down!

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Above: One of the Grand Prix corners close by the Casino.

Thanks for reading - I really enjoyed my visit to Monaco; it is such a unique destination being so small and so wealthy!